Through the looking glass. Camera Rolling, In 3...2..1..

Plus recipe for Rabbit Mole' Ramen

Vanity and being popular was never my thing. I always chose the roads less traveled, where I don’t have to worry about the spotlight, optics, and separating my social circle with my profession. Trust and respect are earned through showing up.. Not from name-dropping, or playing politics. I gravitated towards work environments like that, where the cuisine was the most important priority, -more so than the cuisiner. Decades ago, as an aspiring chef, I vowed to create a restaurant that served the community, where neighbors could come by to eat, drink, or snack any time of the day. Of course, food would be a highlight, but I didn’t want it to be so damn pretentious. I thought about it for years, and despite my French cooking background, -and when the opportunity finally came for it, I was heavily drawn to opening a Ramen joint.

The menu was small, with broth choices, such as Green curry-Miso, ZuZu(* Dashi-shio, with dried Scallops*), Garlic-Soy, and even a Tomato-Lemongrass-Kaffir-nage. At the time, Tonkotsu style Ramen was all the rage, but I wasn’t a fan of how fatty, overwhelmingly gelatinous, and one dimensional its flavor profiles were, so I focused on two soup bases; Chicken, and Vegetable Court bouillon. I loved how clear the flavors of my soups were, but they were also versatile enough to become full bodied rich broths and stews as well. Shoulder, ribs, belly, leg and other Pig parts came from the owner’s hometown farm outside of Montreal. The other owner designed and built a beautiful dining room with lots of hard wood slabs. The kitchen was tight, just enough for myself and another knuckle dragger. We were so fortunate to have local Brooklynites in the front of the house, who brought their own flair. Sake and beers from Japan were served alongside NY brews. From the day we opened, it was like being on a riptide; We ebbed and we flowed. It was a Brooklyn love story, and I absolutely loved it!!

It was a LOT of work though; Things always broke, delivery guy got his bike stolen again(*and I went after the perp, and got it back the second time*), our food vendor forgot to deliver our supplies for the weekend… The neighbor above us always complained about the noise,..A drunk guest locked himself in the bathroom,... ‘Inspectors’ coming in during dinner rush for a ‘handout’, internal quarrels, checks bouncing, endless bills to pay, shitty Yelp reviews and bloggers comparing our Park Slope ramen place to Ramen Meccas in Hokkaido, and scoffing- “It’s not the same!”... Yeah, THAT, was the whole idea. Brushing all of those dramas aside, I showed up day-in/day-out, on a seemingly uphill battle to improve the place bit by bit. Some days really felt like the place was trying to kill me, but I was all about the ‘-Fall Seven times.. Get back up EIGHT times-’ philosophy.

Specials du jour

One major fun outlet I had were the daily Ramen specials, and they tended to be more involved than the regular menu items. The ingredients were what I saw at the markets, which ranged from Mussels with Carrot Curry, Chorizo and Charred Shishito peppers… Locally caught Striped Bass, with Squid Ink dashi…Even a Rabbit Mole’. Our regulars loved it, and some even brought ingredients in from their foraging escapades upstate, or the Mackrels they caught by the shore, etc. Sure, it was not the traditional Ramen fare, but I felt like it was a cooperative development between market/guests/staff/friends and my creative inner-child… It was everyone’s delicious remedy!

One day, a guest that has just finished her meal mentioned that she worked for a Japanese News corporation, and that she was covering the evolution of NYC’s Ramen scene. I was a bit too busy during the dinner rush, so I didn’t get the chance to conversate longer. The guest bowed, and left her business card. After service, I glanced at the card and nearly spit out my shift drink; “NHK?! She’s from a major network!!” I regretted not being more present when the guest came by to the kitchen, and assumed I wouldn’t hear back. Luck would have it, she followed up, and mentioned that she wanted to know more about the non-traditional Ramen that I was coming up with, and she wanted to feature it on the NHK morning segment. My heart skipped a few beats when I heard that!

Since I always had ambitious culinary ideas, it was hard to pick ‘just one’ dish that represented ‘my ramen’. Would it be the Long Island duo of Duck Ramen? Vadouvan spiced Leg of Lamb and Ramp Ramen? Or the Smoked Trout and Chilled Soymilk-Dashi-Ajo blanco? I listed them all, and had the NHK coordinator choose. Surprisingly, she was intrigued with the special she ordered when she came by for dinner weeks before; The Rabbit Mole’ Ramen.

Rabbit Mole’-Miso Ramen

I was a bit surprised that she picked that one, since that lean meat wasn’t regularly featured in Japanese repertoire. I mean, even in Park Slope- that special was not the most popular. Despite the saddle loins being de-boned, stuffed with herbs and rolled, the ribs frenched into racks, and the legs being braised in a Mole-style Miso Stew, guests commented- “Sounds great, but… Thumper/Bugs Bunny were my favorite cartoon characters…” -Then they would order from the regular menu. For the News correspondent, she never had Rabbit, Mole, or Pomegranates before, and though the flavors were ‘exotic’, she was fascinated that each slurp, each bite still were firmly rooted in umami that she was accustomed to registering on her palate. Being understood at this level was extremely heartwarming. Rabbit Mole’ Ramen it was.

A month went by without much response, so I figured the Ramen story was kaput, and I went on with my daily grind. Suddenly, I received a message that the story was green lit. “-How soon do you think you could prepare the Rabbit Mole?” -Two days, would suffice. I asked for how many portions I should anticipate preparing for, and I was told that they only needed two; “One for the live segment, and the other for second taping and photos.”.. Wait, this is LIVE? Aghhhhh!!!

Don’t.. Don’t they know that I’m socially awkward, and not camera-friendly? My Japanese wasn’t exactly tip-top either. All of a sudden, I felt a knot in my stomach. “Could we come by on a Thursday morning?” …Pressure that I am not usually familiar with, was ON!

I explained to the powers that be, that this live news segment would be aired simultaneously in Japan, and elsewhere that NHK was being broadcasted. We decided to close for lunch that day. Prior to the big event, the director, the NHK coordinator, and myself got to chat over the phone, and I gave updates, and he was hoping that the restaurant would be in operation while we were live, so we ultimately decided to stage my staff and our favorite guests as ‘extras’ in the dining room. Those I’ve asked to participate were all so nice to move their schedules around to be in this big moment.. Hell, it was OUR MOMENT, so I felt it was only right that they would all be there.

The day of, at 6 am- I arrived first to my corner restaurant. I lifted the gates, unlocked the door, turned off the alarm- before the nervous neighbor upstairs called the police, and then I turned on everything in the kitchen. Next, I did my own walk-through, and re-cleaned every area of the dining room, and counters. I evenly spaced every stool, and cleaned them as well. I have already stewed the Rabbit legs in Mole Miso, the Confit- so I roasted the rolled saddles, the confit, and the racks. Separately, I kept one whole Rabbit, and then another one that was fully fabricated, in case the director wanted to see the raw products. I blasted on some Mr. Children in the kitchen and hummed along- perhaps to ‘warm-up’ speaking in Japanese in front of the camera. Ugh, I tried not to dwell so much on the whole thing being aired LIVE. I also tried to not go into dysphoric recall - on the last time I did something food oriented in Japanese at my culinary school. I kind of choked…In front of my Culinary idol.. In front of my parents.. In front of my peers…Haha, read all about it! Granted, I have evolved since then, but that old scar left on my ego manifested itself as uncertainty.

While I calmed my nerves, the director knocked on the front door of the restaurant around 8 am. When I enthusiastically opened the door, I was also met with a dozen+ of his film crew. The army arrived, for a 10 minute segment? Wo.. They immediately began their walk-through, and decided how the shot sequences would be, and they broke into teams. Before my eyes, our dining room and kitchen looked like a Truman show set. Oh, and I guess that makes me= Truman Burbank.

Briefing and tasting before taping

The reporter came by to ask detailed questions about me, and the concept of the restaurant. I explained what the Rabbit Ramen was about; Technique is French, its spirit is a melting pot of NYC(*Queens and Brooklyn!!*), Inspiration was from my travels in Oaxaca, and the execution being who I identify as= A Japanese-American. This dish, -was unapologetically ME. I didn’t think she understood until I made a bowl for her and the rest of the News team to try. Then, miraculously, the NHK staff nodded. “The roasted parts of the Rabbit loins are like roasted Charsiu, and the braised legs taste like an exotic braised pork belly. There’s celery and Pomegranates on here too? This was impossible to comprehend without actually trying it, but it IS Ramen! It’s like a journey.. Experiencing your life story with each bite.”- That felt so good to hear. We did a quick take on the dish, but I was told it would not be used for the live segment, since they would be covering three other ramen places in the city. They told me for the weekend show, they might use it. Fine by me.

I kid you not about Time Sync.. Pros are Pros!

The clock was ticking, and the director, producer, reporter, and myself all synched our watches, so we all had the exact same time, to the microsecond. My evening staff and favorite guests all arrived 20 minutes before we went live. We rehearsed and they giggled and ate dishes I prepared, and gave me a ‘thumbs-up’ each chance they had. My entire circle being there for me, was really reassuring.

I’m told at 8:50am, that the News portion has already covered the regional, global, and Japan’s current events. They would transition to ‘NYC life corner’ in 5 minutes. The producer had the team running like clockwork. The guests in the dining room got their final briefing. Then, the director, producer, the announcer all synced with me, and we rehearsed one last time.

*Commercial break*

A.D assertively told us all - “We are live in 60seconds!”

As he counted down in Japanese, and in English, my heart pumped loudly. I did a little jazz-hand thing, followed by neck stretches, elbow thrusts, and jumped like a Kangaroo to shake off any residual stage fright away.

“We are ON, at 3..2..”- They always don’t say ONE, but then everything just organically flowed. Lights were flashing into the kitchen, camera lenses were practically beside my forehead, and the microphone so close to me- that it itched my nose. There was no going back now! Strangely, I was not as nervous as I thought I would be. It was just so surreal, to have everyone from god knows where- see me, and my work. This wasn’t a moment of fame, but to be recognized by people beyond Park slope, Brooklyn, New York- zooming out further and further… It was truly humbling.

The announcer inquired about the ‘non-traditional ingredients’ as we’ve rehearsed, and I described them without any hiccups. I then shared briefly about my ‘Ramen philosophy’. They also interviewed the patrons, and what Ramen meant to them. It was so heartwarming that my actual guests and staff got to share how they resonated with the food I prepare and the ethos of their local ramen joint. They were not actors; These were neighbors, guests, and co-workers that became my family. I felt every heartwarming word they’ve said.

The live segment was done flawlessly on time. There was applause all around. Then we were going to do the taped, longer segment. This was the one that exclusively shined the spotlight on ZuZu Ramen. Since it wasn’t live, and with the confidence of experience, this second taping was far more enjoyable. Once that was finished, I made sure the film crew and everyone that participated ate. We bowed, hugged, shook hands, and before I knew it- It was all Donzo. I looked at my watch. 12:10pm. Not bad! Since we did close for lunch, I finally had my very first ‘free-time’. I wanted some fresh air, so I decided to go for a run- from 4th ave Degraw, to 3rd Ave, then loop around union to 5ave, then back to the restaurant. It was exhilarating, and a good way to use up adrenaline from the morning.

When I came jogging back to the service entrance, my kitchen and delivery guys were waiting for me to unlock the door. We went back into full throttle mode, and geared up for the nights’ service. In a few hours time, we were buried in in-house dining orders, and delivery orders, and the orchestrated calmness of the LIVE food segment would be a thing of the past.

Many amazing memories as well as obstacles that shaped me occurred afterwards at ZuZu. It’s surreal to think how at pre-opening 2009, I was 185 pounds, and when I decided to hang my Ramen apron in 2012, I was 150 lbs or so? The third ER visit finally convinced me that I needed to find a more sustainable relationship between creating food, and self care. Leaving that restaurant that shaped me felt like forcibly carving out a part of me. The grieving process took a long time. Transitioning to being a Private Chef, eventually helped me find my culinary voice/identity/joy once again.

At times, like myself now- feels like I am at a fork in the road in life. Change, and fear of the unknown outcomes are paralyzing. When I feel lost or get discouraged from time to time- I would gently remind myself, like the times at ZuZu.. That despite uncertainty beyond my control, I always ended up finding the path that was meant for me. The challenge within the obstacles to find that right path always always always turned to wisdom that nourished my soul. Perhaps the ‘Ramen philosophy’ that I was asked about during that News segment wasn’t just about Ramen, but my approach/gameplan about life in itself? I will always continue to live this life inspired, adapting, evolving, creating, not take myself too seriously and share my joy. That, is more than enough.

So, come whatever may…

This journey, continues.

-Below, was the recipe from then, for the Rabbit Mole-Miso Ramen. Hope you enjoy!

Rabbit Mole-Miso Ramen, from ZuZu Ramen

YIELD: 4 portions

-Ingredients-

*Soup Base*(Prepare 24 +hours in advance)

Dry shaved Bonito (Hana-Katsuo)- 2 oz

Dried Porcini- 8 slices

High Quality dried Kombu(Kelp)- 1 oz

Sake- 8 oz

Liquid Shio Koji- 4 oz

Shiro Dashi- 4 oz

Dried Abalone&Scallop sauce- 3 oz

*Stuffed Rabbit Saddle*

Rabbit Saddle- 4

Thai Basil- 12 nice Leaves

Smoked Paprika- 2 Tablespoons

Salt&Black pepper- To Taste

*Rabbit Marinade*(Prepare 24 +hours in advance)

Rabbits, fabricated into Saddle, Racks, front and back legs- 2 Rabbits

Liquid Shio Koji- 4 oz

Smoked Paprika- 3 Tablespoons

Garlic, chopped fine- 2 Tablespoons

Ginger, chopped fine- 1 Tablespoon

Pork fat( We always had rich Pork fat from all of the Charsiu we’ve made)- 2 tablespoons

*Brown Rabbit Stock*(Prepare 24 hours in advance)

Pork fat- 1 tablespoon

Rabbit carcass and scraps- From 2 Rabbits

Mirepoix- 1 cup

Garlic, chopped fine- 2 Tablespoons

Ginger, chopped fine- 1 Tablespoon

Bayleaf-1

Fresh Thyme-1

Tomato paste- 1 Tablespoon

Sake- Splash

Chicken stock- 50 oz

*Scraps from Mushroom, scallions, herb stems always welcome!

*Rabbit FRONT leg Confit*

Rabbit FRONT legs- 4

Salt&Black pepper - To Taste

Garlic cloves, peeled- 16

Pork fat, rendered from our Charsiu production- 16 oz, or enough to completely submerge

Bay leaf, Thyme stems, Ginger skin scraps from the other recipes

*Rabbit Mole’*

Rabbit BACK Legs-4

Salt&Black pepper- To Taste

Pork fat- 1 Tablespoon

Dried Guajillo Chiles, deseeded, and toasted- 2

Dried Ancho Chiles, deseeded, and toasted- 2

Coriander seeds, toasted- 1 teaspoon

White Sesame seeds, toasted- 1 Tablespoon

Cumin seeds, toasted- ½ teaspoon

Clove, powder- ½ teaspoon

Cilantro, sliced- 2 Tablespoon

Mirepoix- 2 cups

Plum Tomatoes, charred- 2

Tomatillos, charred- 1

Raisins- 1 Tablespoons

Rabbit marinade from above recipe- To Taste

Awase Miso- 1 Tablespoon

Moromi Miso- 2 Tablespoons

Bittersweet (85%) Chocolate- 8 oz

*Rest of the Ingredients to complete the dish’*

Fresh ramen noodles, curly- 4

Red Amaranth leaves- handful

Scallions, sliced- 4 Tablespoons

Epazote leaves, sliced- 1 Tablespoon

Chinese Celery, shaved fine- stalk and its leaves

Radishes, shaved- 4 small Radishes

Chicharrónes- A sprinkle

Pomegranates- A sprinkle

Nori Seaweed- *Optional, but makes it 1000x better*)

—Special Equipment—

Oven proof 4quart saucepan with a lid, for confit

Pan to sear the Saddle, racks, and confit

Soup pots

Sauteuse with tight fitting lid for the Mole’

Rondeau or a Pasta cooking pot that accommodates 4 portions

Oven

Strainer for the noodles

Chinois for straining the broth

Hand blender or a stand mixer for the Mole’

Ziploc bags for the marinade

Twine for the Saddle and Soup base

Cutting board

Knife

Kitchen shears

Wire whisk

Chopsticks

Ladle for the Soup and Mole’

Cheese cloth and twine for the dried Porcini mushrooms and Bonito

4 wide/high walled Ramen bowls

—Directions—

1. For the Soup Base: Cut a large size cheese cloth, place the Bonito flakes, dried Porcini mushrooms and Kombu in, and tie the top to make them into a Umami-Tea pouch. Place it in a high walled container of choice and add the rest of the ingredients. Mix, place a tight-fitting lid, or wrap with plastic. Keep in the refrigerator for 24+ hours for the Umami to come out.

2. On a clean board, take front and back legs off, remove Liver and Kidneys, and use the kitchen shears to separate the ribcage, cut the back area to free the racks. Set those cuts aside to be marinated. Then, carefully use the knife to remove the right and left loins away from the spine. The idea is to make a boneless saddle of the Rabbit.

3. For the Stuffed Rabbit Saddle: Open up the saddle, and season the meat with Paprika, salt and black pepper all around. Place two Thai Basil leaves on the left flap by the loin and do the same with the right flap. Tightly roll the saddle into cylinders, like a Ballontine. Secure the shape by tying them with butcher’s twine.

4. For the Rabbit Marinade: Place the saddles from above, the legs, the racks all together with the rest of the ingredients. Shake in a Ziploc bag. Refrigerate for at least 24 hours.

5. For the Brown Rabbit Stock: Place the pork fat into a sauce pot and melt at medium high heat. Chop up the scraps, bones, and carcass, and brown. Add in the Mirepoix, garlic, Ginger, and cook until soft and caramelized. Then add in the Herbs and Tomato paste. Work on getting a nice fond on the bottom of the pan. (* You could do this in the oven too*). Deglaze with Sake, and boil out the booze, then add in the Chicken stock. Add in any other scraps from prep in here. Simmer while skimming impurities for 45-60 minutes. Cool the whole thing down completely and reserve for the next day.

6. For the FRONT leg Confit: Pre- heat oven at 315F. Take just the front legs out of the marinade, pat dry- Then season with salt and pepper. Melt the pork fat in a soup pot, then place the Front legs to completely submerge, -as well as garlic cloves, Bayleaf, Thyme stems, and Ginger skin. Carefully place in the oven and cook at low temp for 50-60 minutes, or until nearly fall off the bone- soft. DO NOT BOIL. Set aside in the fat, somewhere warm after they’re done.

7. Re-heat the Brown Rabbit stock in a separate soup pot. Keep hot.

8. For the Rabbit Mole’: Turn UP the oven temp to 350F…Pat dry the back legs, and season with salt and pepper. Heat a larger Sauteuse with pork fat. Sear the legs and set them aside. Add in the prepared Chiles, spices, Mirepoix, Raisins and Tomatoes to the pan, and cook until they’re soft. Add back in the legs, the marinade(*Ginger&Garlic and all*). Have everything nicely coated. Add in the Brown stock and bring to a boil. Skim off the impurities and place a lid. Place in the oven to braise for 45- 1 hour until the legs are cooked through and nearly falling off the bone. Remove the legs again and add in the Miso and chocolate little at a time, and adjust seasoning. Use the hand blender to puree’. When the Mole’ Miso tastes like a Umami bomb- gently place back the legs, and keep warm(*Or slow braise some more, for better flavor*).

9. For the rest: In a Saute’ pan or a griddle, sear the Saddles all around until nice and brown. Also, take out the front leg confit, and sear them, along with the racks. If you saved the livers and Kidneys, Sear them too. These Rabbit parts are very very lean- so treat them like a chicken loin. Don’t overcook!

10. Final stage: Place 1 oz ladle each of the soup base into 4 warm ramen bowls. Heat the Mole-Miso broth, but don’t boil hard, or the chocolate would curdle.

11. Have Noodle cooking water boiling. Cook 4 portions of noodles. Add in a handful of red Amaranth greens. Simultaneously, Ladle in 8 oz each of broth into each ramen bowls.

12. Ramen is done at 45 seconds. Remove and drain of water completely. Place in each ramen bowl with the Mole’-Miso broth. Place the braised Mole’ leg onto each bowl, followed by the front leg confit.

13. On a clean cutting board, slice the saddles to even portion out and distribute to each bowl. Place the racks, offal, and all of the fresh/sliced herb toppings.

14. Enjoy immediately!